Friends, ready for a cliff-top city that sketches history in stone and color? Angoulême perches above the Charente River, its ring of terraces replacing old walls with grand views.

Beyond cobbled lanes, the city champions illustration—think open-air murals, a world-class comics hub, and a January festival that fills streets with sketchbooks. Here's a tidy, price-smart guide (all costs in $) to plan a memorable visit.

Old Ramparts

Angoulême's former fortifications now form scenic promenades. Begin along Rempart de Beaulieu for wide angles over the Charente Valley. Lanterns line the terrace, benches invite lingering, and photo spots appear every few steps. It's free, open 24/7, and perfect at golden hour. Pack water; gradients can be steep on the way up from the river.

Upper Town

Wander the historic core: narrow northern lanes with limestone mansions and shuttered houses give way south to airy 18th- and 19th-century boulevards. Aim for Place Louvel and Rue Hergé for cafés, indie bookstores, and galleries. Lunch menus hover around $16–$22; coffee and a pastry, $4–$6. Wear grippy shoes—the slopes are real.

Comics Festival

Late January brings the Angoulême International Comics Festival, Europe's second largest. Expect exhibitions, signings, and awards across pop-up venues. Day passes typically run $15–$28; multi-day badges $38–$65. Pre-book rooms early (festival weekends can push rates up 20–40%). Off-festival months still showcase rotating exhibits at the city's comics center.

Comics Museum

At the Cité Internationale de la Bande Dessinée et de l'Image, the Musée de la BD explores drawing, narrative, and lettering through originals and retrospectives. Budget 90 minutes. Admission usually $8–$12; under-18s often discounted. The on-site library is a restful break, and the riverside footbridge makes a great approach.

Murals Trail

Angoulême turns walls into pages: more than 20 large murals by beloved French and Belgian artists pop up across neighborhoods. Pick up the map from the tourist office or download the free route. It's a no-ticket, self-paced walk—plan two hours if you stop for photos. Tip: early morning light flatters the art and keeps crowds low.

City Museum

Next to the upper-town terraces, the Musée d'Angoulême spans local archaeology, Oceanic and African art, and European painting. Highlights include Celtic metalwork and finely carved masks. Expect $6–$10 entry; combo tickets with partner museums sometimes save a few dollars. Lockers available for small bags.

Paper Museum

Set in a preserved riverside mill, the Musée du Papier dives into regional papermaking. See historic waterwheels, watermark rollers, and 19th-century machines. Demonstrations run seasonally; allow an hour. Tickets land around $6–$9; workshops (when offered) add $6–$12. It's a short riverside stroll from the comics center.

Town Hall Keep

Angoulême's Hôtel de Ville folds a medieval castle into a stately 19th-century façade. The polygonal tower and stout keep hint at how formidable this headland once was. Free to admire outside; the square hosts markets and events year-round. For photographers, late afternoon brings soft light on the pale stone.

Vintage Racing

Each mid-September, Circuit des Remparts revs up classic machines—Bugattis, Ferraris, Jaguars—on a historic street loop. Grandstand places typically range $15–$35; paddock access can be extra. Streets close during race sessions, so book central lodging and explore on foot. Even if engines aren't your thing, the atmosphere is joyous.

River Time

Warm day? Head down to the Charente. Outfitters rent canoes and kayaks for $12–$20 per hour; family routes drift past leafy banks and stone bridges. Self-drive electric boats (no license) often cost $40–$70 for 1.5–3 hours. Pack sunscreen, a hat, and a dry bag for phones.

Market & Bites

Les Halles, an airy iron-and-glass market hall, brims with seasonal produce, cheeses, breads, and chocolates. Picnic fixings—baguette, local goat cheese, fruit, and pastries—come to $10–$16 per person. Nearby cafés serve tarts, salads, soups, and crêpes; count $12–$20 for a light meal, $3–$5 for a macaron or chocolate treat from the famed Biscuiterie Lolmède.

Parks & Views

Switch the pace in Jardin Vert or along quieter rampart gardens. Bring a sketchbook—many visitors try a quick "urban sketch" of rooftops and river bends. Benches and shade trees make these pockets smart siesta stops on hot afternoons. Free, and rarely crowded outside festival season.

Easy Day Trips

Hop a TER train to nearby Charente towns in 15–45 minutes ($8–$12 one way). Explore riverside quays, bridges, and limestone streets at your own rhythm. If you head toward Cognac, focus on architecture and river walks; the old stone lanes, leafy squares, and riverside paths photograph beautifully.

Where to Stay

Sleep close to the ramparts for walk-everywhere convenience. Midrange hotels run $90–$140 per night; boutique addresses with views typically $150–$220. Trains from Paris Montparnasse reach Angoulême in about 2h10; advance fares can be $35–$70. Local buses cost $1.50–$2 per ride; short taxi hops inside the center are often $8–$12.

Conclusion

Angoulême rewards curious travelers who like texture—stone underfoot, paper in hand, color on walls, wind on terraces. Set yourself a playful challenge: follow the murals until you discover a new favorite artist, then sketch one city view before sunset. When you picture your perfect afternoon here, does it start on the ramparts, by the river, or in a gallery?